Are there buy buttons on the side of the page? If so, you've caught this pattern on one of the handful of days every year when it's available! If not, read on for details of where it went and what to do if you want to be notified the next time it's available.

A few years ago I got overwhelmed by my back catalog, retired most of my earlier work, and launched Tiny Nonsense. That gave me space to make Cool New Stuff! But some people missed the earlier things, so I make many of the retired patterns available for a few days once or twice a year.

• If you see the buy buttons on this page, you’ve caught it on one of the days it’s available! You can buy it just like usual.

• If you don’t see the buy buttons on this page, then it’s not currently available. It will probably be available the week after Thanksgiving and for a few days in June or July.

• If you want to hear when the retired patterns come back, subscribe to the mailing list or patreon, or keep an eye on my instagram.

Incorrigible adjective not easily swayed or influenced

This is a companion to Obstreperous (the hat in the picture at the bottom of this page).

I’m not a big fan of rules. Well, let’s break that down a bit. I’m not a big fan of someone else coming along and telling me ‘you have to do it this way, it’s the rule’ without actually explaining to me just what those rules are and why I should follow them.

And colorwork seems to have a lot of rules (at least according to a certain vocal subset of knitters). Make sure your yarns are the same weight. Use one yarn at a time. Carry each color across the whole piece. Keep your floats short. Turns out, you can break each and every one of those rules and still come out with an awfully nifty project.

If you feel up to a little bout of rule breaking and decide to make this, you’ll use different weight of yarns (one should be a fluffy lace weight, the other can be anything from fingering through worsted weight). Sometimes you’ll hold both yarns together, sometimes you’ll use just one. You’ll use the fluffy yarn on only part of the mitt. And you’ll make scandalously long floats (that you will later cut short in an act of unspeakably satisfying knitterly defiance).

And in the end, after all that scandalous flouting of the rules, you’ll have a lovely, tidy, orderly mitt (which will be all the more delightful because you know you someone out there would be scandalized by how you put it together).

The mitt is written in three sizes (castons of 38, 42, or 46 stitches), and you should feel free to adjust your gauge a bit to fine tune the fit of the mitt. Just be sure that you’re working at a gauge that gives you a fabric you like with your chosen yarns!

I recommend working at something around 5.5, 6, 6.5 or 7 stitches per inch, and I’ve included a table to help you figure out what gauge you’ll want to use for your size. With that range of sizes and gauges, the mitt will fit a hand or arm (measure the widest part you want the mitt to cover) between 6 and 9.25 inches (with lots of points in between).

Oh, and just to help you plan, I used about 150 yards of the main yarn (the gray yarn) and 75 yards of the contrast yarn (the orange one) to make mitts for a large adult. If you’re making a larger or longer mitt (or if you use a skinnier yarn), you might want more like 225 yards of the main yarn and 125 yards of the contrast yarn yarn. I was able to comfortably get a hat and matching mitts for a large adult from one 100g skein of fingering weight yarn and one 25g skein of laceweight yarn.

This is perfect for you if:

• You’ve got an absolutely glorious yarn (or a particularly opinionated one) you want to show off
• You need to break some rules and still have it all come out ok in the end

It’s not for you if:

• You don’t like charts (the pattern uses charts)
• You hate swatching (you need to swatch to check your needle size)