Our mothers (and their mothers) knew this sock by heart, with its vertical heel flap, turned heel, picked up gussets and grafted toe. For many of us, it’s the first sock we learned and our point of departure into the ever widening world of socks. While we love some of the new approaches, we return again and again to this straightforward, comfy basic. Once you understand its simple structure, improvise to your heart’s content.

If you need to size socks for a surprise, here’s a rule of thumb (‘rule of toe?’) based on averages of North American shoe sizing systems:
Women’s size 5 = 9”. For each full size, add ¼“ (e.g. size 7 = 9½”).

For men, take man’s size + 1½; the resulting number is the equivalent women’s size; using the rule above, translate this to inches (e.g. Men’s size 9½ + 1½ = women’s size 11 = 10½“).
Socks are forgiving—just get close!

Yarn
DK/Sport Weight Version (shown in gold): 2 skeins Rowan Felted Tweed (191 yds/175m each), Color 1751.
Or approx. 275 yds/251m of an equivalent dk- or sport-weight yarn.

Fingering-weight Version (shown in blue-gray): 1 skein Cascade Heritage Handpaint (437 yds/400m), Color 9922.
Or approx. 350 yds/320m of an equivalent fingering-weight yarn.