Bogolanfini by Rise Burgie

Bogolanfini

Knitting
September 2022
Handspun – 2-ply
Light Fingering ?
28 stitches and 28 rows = 4 inches
in the round over colorwork with larger needles
US 2 - 2.75 mm
US 3 - 3.25 mm
555 yards (507 m)
One size
English

I was inspired by beautiful Bogolan, aka African Mudcloth, for this Slouchy Fisherman’s Style Kep. I transposed Bogolan symbols to Seeding, Peerie, Border, and OXO patterns to create my fair isle and stranded knitting charts. Bogolan traces back to 12th century Mali, North Africa. Men traditionally wove 6-inch narrow strips from handspun cotton threads, which were stitched together into larger cloth that was then dyed and painted by women artists in fermented mud with many symbols, meanings, and techniques passed down from mother to daughter.

The symbols in Bogolan cloth are vast, and both they and the colors used have specific meanings that can differ amongst the makers and wearers of various countries on continental Africa, where the cloth traditionally offered protection, healing, and more.

The symbolic meanings of the different charts in the pattern are as follows:
The Warrior’s Belt – courage
Snake Bones – bravery
The Back of a Farmer’s Sickle – doing a good job
Snake – good fortune
Spindles and Shelling Peanuts Together – unity
Peanuts – used in many recipes and are snacks, as in many places around the world
Kanaga – protection

Not being an authority on Bogolan, this design is my representation in a knitted accessory, inspired by the beautifully woven cloths.

Finished Measurements
Circumference: 24 inches (61 cm)
Height: 12.5 inches (31.5 cm)

Materials
Approximately 555 yards/517 m fingering weight yarn (2-ply, 17 WPI, see preceding article for fiber types and sources)

  • MC: Cosmos/black tweed, 330 yards/302 m
  • CC1: Twinkle/white monochromatic tweed, 120 yards/110 m
  • CC2: Rust, 65 yards/60 m
  • CC3: Ochre, 40 yards/37 m

US size 2 (2.75 mm) and 3 (3.0 mm) 8-inch (20 cm) double pointed needles and 24-inch (60 cm) circular needles

Stitch markers, tapestry needle, cowrie bead charms by Blue Moon Beads for tassels (optional)

Gauge
28 stitches and 28 rounds to 4 inches (10 cm) worked in the round over colorwork pattern with larger needles

Notes
One or more of the charts with the exception of the final Kanaga chart may be interchanged, repeated, or omitted for a more individualized fit to shorten, lengthen, or even personalize the kep as desired. However, if lengthening, more yardage will be required.