patterns >
Vanessa Smith Designs
> Indira Cowl





















Indira Cowl
After I released the Indira shawl, I wore it everywhere—to work, knit nights, a winter wedding. Anywhere I wanted elegance without overthinking it. But in some settings, like around my office, I realized a smaller accessory would be more practical. I found myself wanting something I could throw on and that would stay put.
A cowl with the same stitch patterns felt perfect. So I started sketching.
The size and shape were crucial. I wanted the same beautiful drape as the shawl and decided to make the cowl wider at the base, narrower at the top. I also wanted to knit as much of that striking double-braided cable as possible. Sideways construction was the answer. It gave me the opportunity to play with short rows, which I’d been wanting to explore more, and to include not just one but two cables! The fun part was problem-solving and figuring out how to execute it so the pattern would be repeatable. When I finally drew a short-row diagram that looked promising, I circled it and wrote, “This works!”
I knit two prototypes to test the construction. The first was too narrow at the top and never saw the light of day. The second one was where things clicked. I was amazed to see the short rows work exactly as I’d sketched them, creating that perfect funnel shape. This sample needed some fine-tuning, but it quickly became part of my knitwear rotation too.
Once the design came together, finding the perfect yarn was next. A bold, dark red colorway in La Bien Aimée’s catalog stood out as the one. I savored every stitch from cast on to bind off, and I was especially excited to be able to wear my finished cowl when meeting Aimée for the first time at Stitches West 2020.
I’ve made two more Indira Cowls since then, including one in yellow for La Bien Aimée’s boutique in Paris, and I constantly reach for any one of the three I still have. It’s exactly the kind of accessory I was looking for—elegant, practical, wearable. Maybe it’s what you’ve been looking for too.
What makes the Indira Cowl special?
-
Sideways construction — the shaping keeps you engaged throughout, and the result drapes beautifully.
-
Two bold cables — The double-braided cables running through the fabric are striking without being heavy. They catch the eye and hold their shape.
-
Lace that breathes — Yarn overs and slipped stitches create openness and movement. The fabric drapes instead of sitting stiff around your neck.
-
Grafted invisibly in pattern — The seam is a detail, not a distraction. It’s meant to disappear into the design.
-
Fisherman’s rib finish — A close cousin to brioche, but simpler to work. Deep, squishy texture that people will want to touch.
Make it a matching set: Pair this cowl with the Indira Mitts for a coordinated look, or layer it over a Nydia sweater.
What’s included?
In the downloadable PDF, you’ll find …
-
Notes on modifying the size if you want to adjust the height or width for your proportions or layering preference
-
Step-by-step directions + a video tutorial for the invisible provisional cast on — the foundation that makes grafting seamless
-
Full written instructions plus a chart for the cable and lace section — follow whichever way works best for you
-
Short-row guidance — They’re the key to getting that funnel shape right, and I walk you through how to do them
-
Grafting instructions in bite-sized sequences so you can see exactly how the seam comes together
-
Professional finishing tips for the bind off edge — because the last few rows deserve as much care as the first
The Knitty-Gritty
Description
The Indira Cowl is an elegant, semifunnel-shaped cowl featuring two unique double-braided cables, simple lace, and luxurious fisherman’s rib. The cowl is worked from side to side, beginning with a provisional cast on and knit to its full width before the cowl is grafted in pattern and the edging is worked. Like the Indira shawl, the resulting cowl offers the perfect amount of warmth and styling opportunities.
Sizes
One Size
Finished Measurements
26½” (67 cm) circumference at top opening; 40½” (103 cm) circumference at bottom opening; and 10½” (27 cm) tall
Cowl size is easily modified, as noted in the pattern.
Yarn
Approximately 465 yards (425 meters) of each a smooth, plied fingering weight yarn and a lace weight mohair blend.
Cowl pictured used approximately 1 skein each of the following yarns held together:
- La Bien Aimée Merino Super Sock (fingering weight; 75% superwash merino, 25% nylon) in colorway ‘Eric Northman’
- La Bien Aimée Mohair Silk (lace weight; 70% mohair wool, 30% silk) in colorway ‘Eric Northman’
Needles
- US 6 (4 mm) circular needle, 32” (80 cm)
- US 4 (3.5 mm) circular needle, 32” (80 cm)
Gauge
23 sts and 30 rows = 4” (10 cm) in stockinette stitch using larger needles, unblocked
Getting exact gauge is not critical, but it will affect the amount of yarn needed for your cowl.
Notions
- (2) Stitch markers
- Cable needle
- Tapestry needle
4295 projects
stashed
3590 times
6257 projects
stashed
8502 times
- First published: February 2020
- Page created: February 5, 2020
- Last updated: March 10, 2026 …
- visits in the last 24 hours
- visitors right now


