“She was warned. She was given an explanation. Nevertheless, she persisted.”

These words form the pattern of this double-knit scarf, which reads the same from either side (colors are reversed). The technique is non-mirrored double knitting, in which the near side stitch of a pair is not necessarily the opposite color from the far side stitch. As a result the chart must show which of the four possible combinations are intended.

The scarf is 30 stitches wide and 609 rows. It can be knit of any pair of smooth contrasting yarns in a needle size that produces a pleasing scarf fabric (not stiff). This pattern is chart only, in one continuous tall narrow strip that is most easily worked on a screen using software that can highlight a row.

The “light side” has dark letters on a light background; the “dark side” has light letters on a dark background. The rows are worked from the chart right-to-left with light side facing, then left-to-right with dark side facing, alternately.

Each rectangle represents one stitch pair, as seen from the light side; the stitch pair colors are indicated as follows:

• a light square with a light upper left corner: both stitches light
• a dark square with a white upper left corner: near stitch dark, far stitch light
• a light square with a dark upper left corner: near stitch light, far stitch dark
• a dark square with a dark upper left corner: both stitches dark

The photo is a snippet showing all 4 types of chart squares (it’s a part of the first “She” on the light side, and the last “d.” on the dark side. Row numbers are on the right.

The size of the scarf will depend upon the yarn weight and needles used; it should take less than 450 yards (415 meters) of each color. If you require a particular size or gauge, do swatch. Stitches on the needle spread more than they will after several rows (similar to k1,p1 rib).

NOTES for knitting non-mirrored DK
When working several both-same-color stitch pairs, pull the unused (other color) yarn to tighten up the stitch pairs. Check on the next row to see if a tension adjustment is needed to minimize show-through.
Alternately, do not tighten. Leave the hidden color outside the work as a float (or pull out a bit of it in the middle of the same-color stitch sequence on the next row). From time to time, go back to cut the yarn and work in the ends to secure the stitches where the color reappears.

It might be useful to determine the largest sequence of same-color stitch pairs that you can be worked without snipping and darning in. Experiment on a swatch; try the “pull to tighten” technique until it doesn’t work for you. Remember that the stitches on the needle are spread more than they will be after subsequent rows have been work so making the ideal choice is a bit delicate (fortunately yarn is tolerant).