CHAKO VEST (#chakovest)

Chako (pronounced chAH-ko, and not chAW-ko, or chAY-ko) has something to do with tea! It’s a sweet collared vest for throwing on as an extra warm layer over just about any outfit.

SIZES
1 (2, 3, 4, 5) (6, 7, 8, 9)

Finished bust circumference (after seaming): 89 (97, 105, 113, 129) (137, 145, 154, 170)cm / 35 (38, 41¼, 44½, 51) (54, 57¼, 60½, 67)”.

To be worn with approx 5-10cm / 2-4” positive ease, but can be worn with more or less ease too depending on preference.

Sample is shown in size 1 with 9cm / 3½” positive ease on a model who is 155 cm / 5’1” tall with approx an 81cm / 32” chest.

~Size 8 and 9 were not tested! If you would like to try out these sizes, please send me a message. Thank you.~

MATERIALS
Recommended Yarn
Pascuali Filati Naturali MANADA (Lace weight; 45% superkid mohair, 25% silk, 15% merino wool, 15% yak; 200m / 219 yds per 25g / .85 oz) 
5 (5, 6, 7, 7) (8, 9, 10, 11) balls shown in colour #224 Hazelnut (Haselnuss)
OR
approx 885 (985, 1125, 1210, 1380) (1580, 1750, 1935, 2180)m / 965 (1080, 1230, 1325, 1510) (1730, 1920, 2115, 2390) yds

Yarn is held double throughout. If substituting a single strand of a heavier yarn (see Yarn Substitutions) you will need approx half the amount of meterage / yardage stated above.

Needles 
4 mm (US 6) straight or circular needle 60 - 80cm / 24 - 32” long for back and front piece hems, PLUS a circular needle 40cm / 16” long for collar and armhole edgings
4.5 mm (US 7) straight or circular needle 60 - 80cm / 24 - 32” long for back and front pieces
or needle size needed to obtain correct gauge

Notions
Stitch marker, stitch holders or waste yarn, spare needle for Three-Needle Bind-off, yarn needle, sock weight yarn in a similar colour for seaming (optional), 1 button approx 13mm / ½” in diameter

GAUGE
20 sts x 29 rows = 10 cm / 4” on 4.5 mm (US 7) needles in Slip Stitch pattern using 2 strands of yarn held together, blocked. Adjust needle size if needed to obtain the correct gauge. 

YARN SUBSTITUTIONS
Two strands of the recommended yarn (Manada) are held together throughout the pattern. Manada is a fuzzy lace weight yarn, and while similar to a lot of other mohair blend lace yarns, it has more fluff. After doing some swatching with other yarns, I found that the typical lace weight mohair silk blend yarn (think Rowan Kidsilk Haze, Drops Kid-Silk, etc) was not an exact substitute for Manada. They created a fabric that was much more sheer and lightweight. While that is fine (and might be the end result you are looking for), to achieve a similar fabric to the Manada yarn, I would suggest using a lace weight brushed alpaca yarn held double since they have more fluff and body (see list below), or use a strand of mohair lace with a strand of fingering / sock weight yarn. This will give you a fabric that is still light weight, but with some added structure.
Alternatively, a single strand of DK weight or light worsted yarn can be used in place of holding two strands of a fluffy lace weight yarn together. Whatever you choose to use, just be sure to swatch first to check your gauge and adjust needle size if needed. I’ve swatched with a few different yarn weights and fibres to give you an idea of what you could substitute with. See example swatches here, and see the list below for Manada substitutions.

Manada Yarn Substitution Ideas (for Holding Double)
Lang yarn Alpaca Superlight
Katia Silk-Alpaca
CaMaRose Midnatssol
CaMaRose Månestråle
Amano Uma
 
Or use a strand of mohair lace yarn with a strand of fingering sock yarn
 
Yarn Substitution Ideas for Single Strand
Rowan Alpaca Classic
Istex Plotulopi
Peace Fleece DK
Berroco Arno
Drops Sky
Isager Eco Soft

Or use any other DK / light worsted yarn with good loft

Please note that this is not a complete list! These are just a few of the yarns I’m familiar with that would give a similar fabric to the Manada yarn or are yarns that test knitters used, and there are many other great substitutes out there. Many other types of yarn can be used to make different fabric textures too.

CONSTRUCTION
This vest is worked flat in 2 pieces (back and front) from the bottom up, and is seamed together at the sides during finishing. Shoulders are shaped using wrap and turn short-rows and are joined with a Three-Needle Bind-off. After shoulders are joined, the collar is picked up from the neck edge, worked back and forth, and features a single functioning button detail at centre front. Lastly, stitches are picked up around each armhole edge and are worked in the round.

Picking up stitches around the neck opening begins 2 stitches to the right of the centre of the front neck. Stitches are then picked up and knitted in a clockwise direction around the neck opening right back to where the first stitch was picked up, then a few stitches are cast on to create a small flap of fabric that will later be sewn behind the front edge to create an overlap for the button. The tail of yarn that is left when first joining the yarn to the neck is used to sew down this flap. For a visual of how the neck stitches are picked up, please see the photo illustration at the end of the pattern.

The body length of this vest is cropped, whereas the armhole depth is slightly deeper than average to accommodate bulkier sleeves when layering. Length can easily be added to both back and front pieces before armhole shaping is worked for a less cropped silhouette and for taller individuals, but please keep in mind that this will use more yarn than stated in the pattern. Also please take into account the full body length from shoulder to hem to ensure your vest doesn’t become too long! See schematic for measurements.