Jocosa by Susan Crawford

Jocosa

Knitting
August 2024
both are used in this pattern
yarn held together
Lace
+ Fingering
= Fingering (14 wpi) ?
22.5 stitches and 31 rows = 4 inches
in over stocking stitch and colourwork, worked with one strand of Byre and one strand of Mist held together in the round, after blocking. We obtained this gauge using 3.5mm needles.
US 2 - 2.75 mm
US 4 - 3.5 mm
17 sizes to fit from 76–157 cm (30–62 in) chest
Flag of English English
Errata available: susancrawfordvintage.com

This pattern is currently only available as part of A Stitch in Time Volume 3, the colourwork edition.

Jocosa is a delightful circular yoked sweater with a stranded colourwork pattern on the yoke and above the cuff. The gently curved neckline is extremely flattering and this easy-to-wear sweater would look equally good in either a vintage or contemporary wardrobe.

This single sized yoked sweater pattern from the 1940s had a very contemporary look to it, yet was paired with a very typical ‘vintage’ construction used for yoked sweaters around this time. The front and back pieces were knitted in separate flat pieces with deep short row sections worked on either side of the centre cast off, to create the ‘slope’ needed to work the yoke. The yoke was then worked in separate pieces for the front and back with additional stitches cast on which would then be attached to the top of the sleeves. All in all, a quite complex construction for what is now considered to be a very standard sweater shape.

I have therefore taken the liberty of simplifying the construction method and rewriting the pattern for Jocosa to be worked from the top down, in the round, commencing with the decorative yoke. Increases are worked on plain rounds between pattern motifs. The yoke is then separated into body and sleeve sections, which are individually worked in the round. The length of the lower body can easily be adjusted for a perfect fit. Instructions for full length sleeves have been added in addition to the elbow length sleeves on the original pattern. The updated version of the pattern is designed to be worn with approximately 10cm (4in) of positive ease at the chest. If you would prefer a closer-fitting vintage fit, choose a size which has a finished measurement close to your actual chest measurement

Charlie is shown wearing the 5th size designed for 97cm (38in) chest but worn with 15cm (6in) of positive ease for a more relaxed fit.

To further illustrate the connection between this vintage design and similar contemporary, yoked sweaters, I have chosen to knit this beautiful garment using fingering weight Byre held together throughout with Mist a mohair / silk, laceweight yarn throughout. Pairing these two yarns together creates a soft Lopi-esque look to the finished fabric and a softer, almost faded look to the yoke patterning which I find quite delightful.

Jocosa comes in 17 sizes to fit from 76–157 cm (30–62 in) chest and with both written and charted to work from plus a clear schematic diagram and sizing charts.

A yarn kit is also available containing all the hand-dyed Byre yarn and the undyed shade of Dry Stone Wall and Mist in the undyed shade of Mallow required to knit Jocosa.

Yarn
Susan Crawford Byre, fingering weight,
100% British wool
(400m / 427yds per 100g skein/ 100m / 114yds per 25g skein)

Susan Crawford Mist, lace weight, 72% mohair / 28% silk (420m / 459yds per 50g skein)

SHORT AND MEDIUM LENGTH LONG LENGTH
2 (2, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2, 3, 3, 3, 3, 3, 3, 3, 3, 3, 3) 2 (2, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2, 3, 3, 3, 3, 3, 3, 3, 3, 3, 4) skeins (100g), Byre shade Dry Stone Wall – Yarn A
1 (1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 2, 2, 2, 2) 1 (1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2) skeins (25g), Byre shade Glimpse of the Sea – Yarn B
1 (1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1) 1 (1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1) skeins (25g), Byre shade Undergrowth – Yarn C
1 (1, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2) 1 (2, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2) skeins (25g), Byre shade Clay – Yarn D
1 (1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 2, 2) 1 (1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 2, 2) skeins (100g), Byre shade Night Sky – Yarn E
1 (1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1) 1 (1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1) skeins (25g), Byre shade Red Sky in the Morning – Yarn F
1 (1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1) 1 (1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1) skeins (25g), Byre shade Hay Bale – Yarn G
1 (1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 2, 2, 2, 2) 1 (1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2) skeins (100g), Byre shade Room Of My Own – Yarn H

2 (2, 2, 3, 3, 3, 3, 3, 3, 3, 3, 3, 3, 4, 4, 4, 4) 2 (2, 3, 3, 3, 3, 3, 3, 3, 3, 3, 3, 4, 4, 4, 4, 4) skeins (50g), Mist shade Mallow – Yarn J

Gauge
22.5 sts and 31 rounds = 10cm (4in) over stocking stitch and colourwork, worked with one strand of Byre and one strand of Mist held together in the round, after blocking. We obtained this gauge using 3.5mm needles.

24 sts and 31 rounds = 10cm (4in) over stocking stitch and colourwork, worked with one strand of Byre and one strand of Mist held together in the round, before blocking. We obtained this gauge using 3.5mm needles.

If necessary, use an alternative needle size to obtain the correct gauge.

Suggested Needles
Small needles: 2.75 (US 2) circular needle (60-100cm in length)
2.75 (US 2) circular needle (30-40cm in length)
Set of 2.75mm (US 2) DPNs

Large needles: 3.5mm (US 4) circular needle (60-100cm in length)
3.5mm (US 4) circular needle (30-40cm in length)
Set of 3.5mm (US 4) DPNs

Notions
Waste yarn or stitch holders
Stitch markers

Techniques
Working top down in the round
Following a chart
holding two yarns together

Errata information for this pattern can be found at https://susancrawfordvintage.com/pages/errata