I have done several sweaters over the years using twisted stitches, and since this is the topic for the Stitch Anatomy article, I decided to make a more traditional garment than I have in the past. My other sweaters used twisted stitches for an all-over design or motifs separated by wide panels of reverse stockinette stitches. For my inspiration, I used the patterns for garments found at the back of Twisted-Stitch Knitting by Maria Erlbacher. Mirrored on either side of a central motif, I’ve placed multiple twisted-stitch panels separated by a simple five-stitch pattern.

I was surprised when I studied Erlbacher’s patterns for the sweaters and vest that they were not knit in the round. Based on the bitter complaints from those doing the Master Program, I know most knitters prefer to work twisted stitches in the round, but I don’t mind working them flat. This tunic, which features vents at the sides and a buttoned front, is worked flat. Does this add a layer of complication to the process? Yes, but by the time you work the Right Front, it will be second nature. Another complication to the pattern is the horizontal chain stitch technique used to separate the bottom band and the neck and armhole bands from the stitch patterns. Directions for this technique are provided, but this finishing detail is optional.

Another thing that makes this a complex knit is that the motifs have different row repeats, which makes keeping track of where you are much more complicated. At first, I thought I would do a chart for each motif and let the knitter deal with it. (This is how Erlbacher’s patterns are written.) I gave up on this approach for the sake of my sanity. My ultimate solution was to do a single chart for each size that could be used for the back and the fronts. The backs of traditional sweaters have a central motif with the other motifs mirrored on the sides. The fronts repeat the central motif next to the front bands with the same motifs from the back. I charted only one side of the back. You read the chart from right to left, and when you reach the central motif, you read the chart from left to right.

About the charts…Erlbacher’s charts are comprised of 8 symbols with dashes and arrows, which I find very confusing, so I have converted them to grid charts. Since it would be very difficult to knit this sweater referring to charts on a screen when several are so large, I have not included all in the digital version. You can print all of the charts by selecting the Download option at the end of the pattern. I have also included all of the motifs as separate charts if you find that method easier.

About the gauge…The entire tunic is worked in twisted-stitch patterns except for nine stitches at the sides that are worked in reverse stockinette. Since an accurate gauge is crucial for this project, I have provided a chart for working the gauge swatch.